NOTE: This blog was written by David Messick, the consumer marketing director at The Daily Press Media Group.
For more than a week I visited and shared information about the newspaper business with the staff at the Sevastopol Gazette, a weekly publication in Sevastopol, Ukraine. I am the consumer marketing director for the Daily Press and have been honored to represent The Daily Press in an exchange program sponsored by IREX, a non-profit organization founded on the belief that a free press is critical to maintaining a free and open society.
I admit that I am not a journalist. It is my job to help our organization remain profitable so that a free and open press can continue to operate. I am traveling with Marisa Porto, the new media editor for the Daily Press.
On our last official day we travel to Kiev to meet with U.S. Embassy officials to discuss our trip. The U.S. State Department gave IREX the grant money to fund the program. The flight from Simferopol is delayed by two hours so we sit on the sidewalk waiting. When we arrive in Kiev I learn that Hampton Roads has nothing on traffic backups. A 15-minute ride to the U.S. Embassy takes more than an hour.
Once we arrive, we are asked general questions about our trip, what we learned and what we shared. Finally, a question about the newspaper's publisher and the operation, how serious their staff is about what they do. The questioner hints at how influential the newspaper can be in the city. The Ukraine has been independent for 19 years, but still has strong ties to Moscow because it has been home to the Black Sea Fleet.
The Gazette's Publisher, Andrey Sobolev, is a jovial guy. When not acting as publisher, he is writing and singing folk song. As we travel around the city, people rush to speak with him or shake his hand wherever we go. This feels very “American” to me. Many of the small newspaper publishers I’ve met have great people skills. They are well connected and well liked, opening closed doors when need be, keeping their business alive.
Andrey's top editor, Irina, is a no-nonsense manager who literally works day and night to ensure the paper satisfies its readers needs and makes deadline… no matter what. They are a good pairing.
I tell the embassy officials two stories to help them understand the challenges the paper must face and how well managed the organization is. When Marisa Porto and I were asked to visit Sevastopol, we were encouraged to prepare Powerpoint presentations to explain what we do. They would then be translated into Russian for our visit.
I am comfortable presenting in front of groups. I find it easy to do in my own language. I soon learn that it is more difficult when everything must go through a translator. After two days of presenting, Marisa and I break into separate groups, abandon the presentations and just talk. Tell me about your business. What can you share with me? How can I help you?
Suddenly, the young advertising representative who has been quiet for two days explodes with questions. My translator, Svitlana, retains her composure as she tries to keep up with the conversation. Now we are sharing, learning, helping each other.
Later in the day, we join together for a larger conversation that gets more serious. We learn that it is very difficult for this paper to cover government meetings. Most officials serve four to five years and feel little need to be responsive through the independent press. There is a seven-day, state-run paper that will share the “official version” of the truth.
Staff members of the Gazette are not always given permission to attend government meetings, and while they are supposed to be allowed by law, when they arrive at the appointed time, the meeting has often been canceled, already held or is being held at another place far away.
We share the story of Daily Press reporter Matt Sabo and the coverage of the Gloucester 40. We share how official meetings in the states must be open to the public. We have very specific rules on when meetings can be behind closed doors and when they cannot.
I relate how government meetings were held behind closed doors, how our reporter pointed this out. How 40 people in Gloucester petitioned to have members of the council unseated. How their petition was dismissed by a judge but the 40 were fined. And how eventually the council was not reelected and how the 40 were vindicated when they received a community citizenship award.
It is not this way in Sevastopol. While Marisa and I explain strategies we think can help, they don’t understand. We would write editorials, our video presentations would show council chamber door closed and explain how this is a violation of our rights. Someone on the Gazette staff says: “Perhaps our readers would find that boring.” I am concerned. "The people of Sevastopol would not want to hear the truth?" I think.
My concerns are overcome not by talk, but by a sightseeing trip, which leads to my second story.
Part of every day we spend in Sevastopol is filled with cultural excursions. We visit museums, we visit monuments. We see the Black Sea by boat. Today, we visit an ancient Greek village on the water called Chersonesos, which was founded about 2,500 years ago in the sixth century B.C. It is nicknamed the "Ukrainian Pompei." The University of Texas at Austin is working with the Ukrainian government on this archaeological dig.
We see a grand amphitheater made of stone. The open air location provides a setting for modern theater presentations, just as it did hundreds of years ago. We see columns by the beautiful and inviting sea… the perfect blue sky reflected in the clear waters. One could not paint a more serene spot.
Then we visit the cathedral of St Vladimir,which overlooks the archaeological site and beckons worshipers and tourists alike. Even admitted non-believers in our group seem to find peace as they light candles and absorb the sanctuary inside.
Now on to the Battery 35: an underground maze of barracks which service two mighty cannon locations meant to provide unbeatable defense against any intruder. Originally conceived and financed by the Czarist government in the teens, it is not completed until World War Two. By this time Adolph Hilter recognizes that Sevastopol must be overtaken in order to control all of Russia.
The site will open to the public next year. Because of Andrey’s community connections, we are given a tour. As we walk toward the battery, I notice a bunker dug into a hill in the sand that looks like the bunkers built into hills beside my former office in Oyster Point. “We have bunkers like this at home.” Andrey looks at me solemnly. “You don’t have bunkers like this where you live.” I can tell that what we will soon see is very serious to Andrey.
We enter the underground barracks. And while new lighting and ventilation have been provided, along with photos and artifacts, there is a musty smell that affects our breathing on this day and the days that follow. Our tour guide explains that this battery survived numerous attacks by Hitler’s army, but Hitler was relentless and defeat was inevitable.
Their general knew that he could not win and sought escape with some of his officers. He received permission to leave by submarine in July 1942. On the night of July 3, the general went down the 84 steps of the long and winding spiral staircase in the far west side of the battery. He then ran through the narrow, dark tunnel… leaving behind nurses, wounded, fighting men and officers. He escaped and went on to become a legendary Soviet hero. You see, the Soviet newspaper, Pravda (which ironically means “The Truth”), reported that the general had defended the city honorably and that all was well in Sevastopol.
But all was not well. Hitler’s army took over the city. Wounded and others followed the staircase taken by the general. They rushed down the narrow dark hall to the sea hoping to escape on the two ships that fought to navigate between the tunnel opening and the walls of the coast. Rocks jut out of the sea… waves splash against the walls and rise up as if to grab you and pull you into the waters below…
Now, our tour guide explains, imagine the rescue ship approaching as people in the tunnel try to jump on board. People appear to be crawling out of the rocks to seek refuge on the last boats to freedom. The boat overflows and risks sinking as the soldiers on board shoot over the heads of desperate escapees. They fall into the water and are minced by the ship’s propeller.
And as horrific as this scene is, hose who survive this horror find something far worse as Hitler’s men send them on a death march. They must walk along the street where many are crushed by tanks. If they walk on the sidewalks, they are shot immediately. Some drink sea water which destroys their kidneys as they die painfully on the journey.
It is now estimated more than 30,000 people died after the city was aabandoned by the general, their country and their newspaper, Pravda, which never reported any of it. The general is praised as a hero while many dead are still buried in the rubble of the battery.
Until now.
Our tour guide tells us that Andrey, the publisher of the Gazette, has been instrumental in reopening this place to the public. He then speaks and looking in his eyes… I know that I have discovered his heart. “This place was reopened by the people of Sevastopol. This is a public endeavor. The people rented this land. The people paid for this museum. This is not a government monument. The dead that we found in the rubble here will be buried close by. Their story will be told. Their families will find a place of solace.”
For more than 60 years the truth of the battery was buried and hidden. The story ignored by the government newspaper. But it has not been ignored by Andrey or his community newspaper. I tell this story to the eembassy representatives as explanation of what I know: The Sevastopol Gazette is run by an honorable man, and his newspaper and its staff report the truth.